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Tips for Ford Flathead Engines
'32-'48 & '49-'53

Use valve grind compund to seat rear hubs on axles so taper fits tight and torque to 150 ft/lbs.
When replacing fuel pump (buy new if possible), install new push rod - make sure lobe isn't flat and pack heavy grease in fuel pump linkage so condensation from engine won't get to the linkage and ruin pump.
Use only hub puller on Ford hubs or you can ruin axle and brake drum by pulling on lugs.
If you are going to replace shackle brushings and are not going for a 100 point Concourse Car, use the new style high tech bushings as the car will handle better and they won't grind apart.\
Replace upper stearing shaft and bushing with ball bearings #C3DZ-3517A plus spring and bushing (Ford).
When grinding valves, always use valve grind compund and lap valves to assure a good seat.
Do not use copper head gaskets on aluminum heads - they set up electrolysis and new head gaskets should be coated with a sealer so they will let head slide from heat. Also, coolant won't seep through head gasket.
When installing head studs or head bolts that go into the water jacket (all Ford '32-'53), seal threads with sealer so water won't seep out of threads.
When building new engine install a '49-'53 oil pump which is 80# instead of 50# and the pickup tube has to be re-made and sending unit changed.
When replacing grease seals, never use leather seals - always use neoprene.
For rust free brake system, use silicone brake fluid made by Dow Corning. Flush brake lines with flushing fluid - this leaves no residue and replace all rubber parts in master cylinder and wheel cylinders. Any drop of old brake fluid will attract water.
Do not start car unless you are going to drive car 15 or 20 miles because condensation will stay in engine and exhaust system and will deteriorate both.
Balance clutch and flywheel or engine will vibrate.
Never use used transmission bearings. They will make noise and you will have to tear apart again.
Magnaflux rear axles when rear end is apart to make sure there aren't any cracks or flaws.
Torque all bolts and nuts to specified torque as not to weaken or distort by over tightening.
Use Monel for pins in the drive shaft sleeve. Mild steel will work; hardened steel comes apart and will break in half and fly out. (Arc weld ends of pins to keep in place)
Keep gas tank full so condensation won't form or water will settle in bottom of gas tank and rust and weaken.
When installing axles and drive shaft, cover with heavy grease to prevent condensation from forming rust and weakening.
When rebuilding '32-'48 Ford differentials, have bearing races installed on axle housing even if you think they look good, then they will last forever. They wear faster than you think. They will fall apart!
When the inhibitors in anti-freeze break down the ethylene glycol will attack the lkead in the solder in the radiator and also any aluminum parts plugging tubes in radiator, also anti-freeze will seep where water won't -- this means all gaskets.
Use Propylene Glycol anti-freeze only! It won't destroy engine bearings if it is induced into the engine oil. Ethylene glycol anti-freeze will instantly ruin all engine bearings if it is induced iunto the engine oil. Propylene anti-freeze helps eliminate cavication corrosion problems better. It is safer to dispose of also. It has a lowed toxicity to pets and wildlife.
Put silicone on tires and all rubber parts to help preserve and keep temperature at 60-65 with air circulating. Keep covered with cloth car cover in darkened area.
If car sets for a long period of time pump brake pedal to keep all cylinders lubricated so rubber cups don't become unsealed from cylinder walls.

From Technical Tips by Dick Flynn - Copyright 1980, 1989, 1992 Richard C. Flynn.
Used with Permission. To order Technical Tips, click here.

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